Adopting a Rescue Dog: 20 Tips for the First Seven Days
While you can find plenty of guides online about preparing to bring your newly adopted dog home, it’s not always easy to find information that focuses solely on how to understand your new family member.
What is he thinking? How is he feeling? What would he be telling you if he could talk?
The first seven days after adopting a rescue dog are crucial for building a bond with your new pup, so here are my top 20 tips to help make the transition go as smoothly as possible. These are based on my own personal experience of adopting rescue dogs over the years.
The two most important things you can do when bringing home your new rescue dog
Let’s start with these because they will form the foundation of your and your dog’s entire experience.
- Make sure your dog is safe and that he actually FEELS safe.
- Leave him alone and allow him time to de-stress.
That’s it. Those were bonus starter tips, so let’s now get into the 20 I promised.
#1. The dog’s gear
When you are adopting a rescue dog, the dog should already be microchipped. If he’s not for some reason, you might want to get this done as soon as possible. The rescue organization or dog shelter will need to change his ownership and contact details with whichever microchip registry he is listed on. Or they may have you do this yourself.
Make sure the dog has a flat collar with his name and phone number on it, preferably embroidered. I prefer this to the printed option because I find it more durable.
If you use tags, make sure they don’t clang against each other. It’s a good idea to use a well-fitted harness and attach the leash to it. I prefer not to attach the leash to the dog’s collar to try to avoid risk of injury to the dog’s neck or throat if he pulls on the leash. He’s also less likely to be able to escape out of a harness.
Put the collar, harness and leash on him at the rescue before you leave for home. You can also use two leashes and clip one to the back D-ring and one to the front D-ring for extra security.
If bringing your new dog home by car, take extra care when opening the car door so he doesn’t bolt out if he is scared. Where possible, use a proper canine car harness (check your local legislation) or have a crate in the back for the car ride home, but the same applies.
Once you get home, make sure he has the chance to go to the bathroom before you bring him inside. Take him for a short walk if he seems relaxed and not too scared. Let him sniff around his new area and start to get used to his new surroundings.
#2. Setting up the dog’s environment
Inside the home, set up a safe space or room for him away from household noise and other pets. Include a cozy bed, food, water, toys, chew toys, and puppy pads if you think he might need them. Remove anything he might chew or swallow. Consider wires and blind cords, household chemicals, fabric, shoes, and plants (some plants are toxic for dogs).
Make sure the space is safe. If your new dog is in a bathroom or laundry room, make sure that cleaning products are removed or inaccessible and the toilet lid is closed.
When you bring him into his new home on the first day, take him straight to his safe space. If possible, don’t allow other pets to see him, although of course they will hear and/or smell him. Reinforce them with treats to start building positive associations with the new arrival.
Make sure the space is quiet and not in a busy area of the house. Be prepared for him to cry or whine if he is scared or lonely, especially on his first night. He may have abandonment issues or separation anxiety. In such cases, it may be easier to use a dog gate so he is not completely cut off. If you do this, it’s best to keep other pets away to begin with.
Don’t hesitate to go and sit in the room with him if he’s not too scared. Talk to him gently, avoid making direct eye contact, feed him delicious treats (you can place them on the floor if he doesn’t want to take them from your hand), and try to calm him. When you leave the room you can give him a Kong stuffed full of goodies, a safe chew toy, or a LickiMat to keep him busy and help him relax.
Note: in my experience gastro upsets are quite common in newly adopted dogs due to the stress and change in diet. So try not to overdo it with the treats!
#3. Should I crate my dog?
Personally, I would not. I have only once crated any of my dogs (when we lived in the US). It is actually against the law in Finland (where we now live) and is generally less common in Europe than it is in the US. A safe space or room works perfectly well and gives the dog more freedom of choice, which helps build trust and confidence.
If you do decide to use a dog crate you will need to condition the dog to it so he enjoys going in and spending time in there, rather than feel scared and stressed about it.
#4. Food and water
If possible, find out what the dog was eating and keep to the same food to start with. You can gradually change it by adding a bit of your preferred food to the initial food over a week or so until the dog has adjusted to the new food.
I prefer to feed twice a day to establish a routine and give the dog something pleasant to look forward to (the more “highlights” in his day, the better for his overall mood state).
Some dogs may be wary of stainless steel dishes, either because of the way they reflect the light or the way their tags clank against them. In which case you can offer a ceramic food bowl option. Ditto his water bowl.
This way, you can start to get to know your dog and find out his preferences so you can make him feel as safe and secure as possible.
Watch out for resource guarding behavior when he has food or treats (or also is in his bed or has a toy) and respect his warnings, such as growling, freezing, whale eye (whites of the eyes showing), stiffened musculature, ears back. You can work on the resource guarding later if you need to.
#5. Bathroom breaks
If the dog is confident enough to leave his safe area, take him outside on a leash for potty breaks every few hours. Don’t let other pets see him at this stage. If he doesn’t want to leave his room, that’s why you have the puppy pads as a backup.
#6. Downtime
Make sure your pup has plenty of downtime to chill out, de-stress, regroup, and learn that he’s safe. Take in his food and treats so you can start building trust and positive associations, change the puppy pads, and chat with him without staring at him or approaching him full-on.
If he’s extra nervous, you can try some relaxing music. If he’s relaxed, happy, and friendly you can of course move things along much faster. This is a good time to start building your bond with him, but the key is to work to his timeline and not yours.
#7. The dog’s background
You may not know anything about your new dog’s background. I would avoid trying to guess and make assumptions and just work with what you see.
Note that your dog may have negative associations with certain words (including his name if you elect not to change it) or certain objects.
Pay close attention and always talk to him calmly and quietly.
#8. Avoid eye contact and trying to touch/hug
Avoid staring at your dog and make soft eye contact instead – look at him, then look away, look again, look away, and so on. Staring is seen as hostile in the dog world. You can use calming signals, such as turning your head away, or your body to the side, just as dogs do. Try to approach him in a roundabout way and not a direct line, again just like dogs do.
He probably isn’t ready yet for hugs and kisses and I would also avoid backing him into a corner or approaching him unless he has an option to move away if he gets scared.
#9. Build up time spent with the dog and always watching for signals
Be aware of the dog’s body language. Yawning, tongue flicks, ears pinned back, low tail carriage or tucked tail, and turning away can be signs of stress or a desire not to fully engage. Just take your time, there’s no rush.
Conversely, if the dog is super happy and excited to come to greet you when you go into his room or area, give him all the attention he wants and start building up your bond right away!
#10. Understand how the dog feels
Remember this is all new for the dog: new environment, people, pets, scents, sounds, food, daily routine… His emotions may be all over the place. Let him adjust in his own time.
#11. Don’t rush it
There’s no need to rush straight out for a walk or to the dog park or to play with other pets. And there’s no rush to start training new things either. The dog is, most likely, already in a state of emotional overload and may struggle to focus on learning or retaining new information.
#12. Open the door and replace it with a dog gate
As the dog starts to get to know you and is more relaxed, you can use a dog gate so he can see out into the house. Keep other pets at a distance and reward calm behavior with treats.
#13. Introducing other pets
Manage the home environment carefully, and always put safety first. You can use a dog gate or baby gate, leashes, and long lines to make sure nothing goes wrong.
To start with, your new dog will already be separated from the other adult dogs (or resident pets) in his safe zone. When you notice indications that he’s beginning to relax and feel more at ease, you can start letting them see each other at a distance and pairing the interaction with yummy treats, making sure both pets remain calm and relaxed before gradually moving them closer together.
You might need to do several of these controlled introductions over a period of days or even weeks before the dogs (or cats for that matter) are ready to meet face-to-face without any barriers between them.
Keep interactions short and positive. It’s important to go at the pace that is right for both dogs and not rush things. It makes life much easier in the long run!
#14. Introducing family members
Depending the on the dog, different family members can take the dog his food or offer him treats. If there are children in the house, never leave them alone with the dog – or any dog.
#15. Going outdoors
If the dog is interested in going outside, start doing short outings in your yard. Keep the dog on a harness and leash if you don’t have a fence.
If you do have a fence, make sure the dog isn’t trying to jump over it or burst through the gate.
And don’t have him loose with other dogs yet. Feed him treats so he learns that being with you is a good thing.
#16. Introduce the dog to his new home
Remove other pets and let the dog out of his safe zone to explore the house. You can keep him on a long line for safety.
Let him sniff areas where other pets have been. Once he’s finished exploring, take him back to his safe place. If he wants to go back there at any time, respect his decision.
If you can engineer it safely, you can have other household pets go in and sniff around your new dog’s area when he’s outside or in another room.
Let them get used to each other’s scents and reward for calm behavior.
#17. Walks
Keep walks short to begin with. Your new dog is still getting to know you and learning to trust you.
Use a long line or leash if necessary so you don’t have to stand too close to him and take treats with you so you can encourage him to go in whichever direction you want him to.
Use both a harness and flat collar and two leashes if you feel the dog may be a flight risk.
#18. Continue to work on building trust
Build up your trust account with your dog by repeated positive associations (food, treats, games) and pleasant, fun experiences. Teach the dog his name, work on a good recall (i.e. coming back when called), establish a routine, and stick to it so the dog knows what to expect. This will help him settle in and build his confidence.
#19. Build up exposure to other pets
Keep your dog leashed in the house until you’re sure he can safely be around other pets. You don’t have to hold the leash, but it’s there ready for you to grab if you need to intervene quickly.
Walking dogs together can be a good way to build up their bond through a shared positive experience. A confident, established dog can also be a huge help for the new arrival if they are scared.
#20. The 3-3-3 Rule
The 3-3-3 rule is intended as a general guideline for what owners of newly adopted rescue dogs can expect in the first three days, the first three weeks, and the first three months after bringing their new pet home.
While there’s no real “one-size-fits-all” when it comes to animals and your shelter dog should never be rushed into doing something he’s not comfortable with while he’s still adjusting to his new life, the 3-3-3 rule can provide a helpful benchmark for managing expectations and understanding the dog’s perspective during the adjustment period.
What if my dog has behavior issues?
Fear, stress, anxiety, or other behavior issues may sometimes arise as a dog settles in and feels more comfortable “being himself” so to speak. This is the fun time when your dog’s true personality starts to come out. Be patient and stay calm, and contact a qualified, positive reinforcement trainer if you need help.
Final thoughts
This is not intended to be a step-by-step guide.
Many of the things I’ve talked about here will overlap or occur in a different order.
Things don’t always go according to plan and you may need to adjust on the fly.
I recommend you take all your cues from the dog and become a master at reading his body language and signals.
And never rush it – let him set the timetable for his first week, first month, and so on to ensure a smooth transition.
You have plenty of time to get to know each other, for him to get to know his new family, go on fabulous walks, and meet fun new people and other pets.
Wait till he’s ready and let him make his own choices.
This way you’ll build confidence and trust in you.
By empowering him to make his own decisions, he’ll feel more in control of his own life, so he’ll be calmer and more relaxed.
And forget all that old stuff about dominance and being the alpha dog, it’s completely outdated and inappropriate.
You and your pup are a team!
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Resources
- 3-3-3 Rule Of Adoption – Winnipeg Humane Society
- Plants Toxic to Dogs – ASPCA
NEED A DOG TRAINER OR BEHAVIOR EXPERT? If you need more help dealing with a training or behavior issue, please find professional help from a force-free dog trainer who can consult with you either in person or remotely. GOOD PLACES TO START ARE: - COAPE Association of Pet Behaviourists and Trainers - Pet Dog Trainers of Europe - International Companion Animal Network - Institute of Modern Dog Trainers - Pet Professional Guild All dog owners deserve to have successful relationships with their canine companions!
